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Fiberglass Panels Translucent
Corrugated roofing has been round for many years and has proven to be a great product for homeowners who want to outfit their properties or agricultural buildings with a sturdy, climate-resistant and adaptable material. Fiberglass corrugated roofing is a lightweight panel that has been proven to be strong, weatherproof and fire-resistant, making it the perfect selection for your next roof.
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Asphalt roofing shingles have lengthy been the standard material for roofs. Nevertheless, traditional asphalt shingles are cumbersome to install. They're heavy and take a very long time to stick properly. Furthermore, asphalt shingles may be damaged by the heat of the sun, especially when installed incorrectly. Fiberglass shingles and fiberglass panels have a much greater resistance to heat. Fiberglass roofs won't bend or warp resulting from heat. This also makes fiberglass the most effective fireplace-resistant roofing materials choice.
Corrugated fiberglass roof shingles and panels are rapidly changing into a popular alternative amongst owners, merely due to its unmatched durability and fireplace resistance. The design of the corrugated roof panels effectively funnels rainwater away from the roof, virtually eliminating the problems of pooling and standing water on high of a roof. By installing a fiberglass roof to your house, storage, barn or shed, you'll rest straightforward knowing that heavy rains will not damage the inside walls or leak by means of, damaging your precious possessions.
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Choosing corrugated roofing panels in your barn, storage, shed or home is a cost-effective and sensible choice. You will enjoy the weatherproofing advantages, strength and flexibility of corrugated fiberglass roofing panels, as well as lower your expenses on materials and installation.
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Paint over wood paneling?
There is a room in my (grandma's) house that hasn't been lived in in about 30 years. It had become the "junk room" of her house, completely filled with old mail and old clothes and old baby toys. I've been working on clearing it out the past few weeks on garbage days and I've just about got it all done. The walls are disgusting as is the carpet, and we need to fix it all up for somebody to live in. So I have a few questions!
1) Would you recommend painting the walls or putting new carpet in first?
2) There's scum on the walls, and water marks streaking down from rain getting in through the window. Saying this, do you think I would be able to handle fixing up and painting the walls myself or should I hire someone?
3) About how much would it cost to hire someone for the painting job?
4) One of the walls has wood paneling with groove lines down each panel, and the other 3 are just flat white walls... how can I make the wood panels flat to match the other walls?
Thanks!
1. Absolutely, paint first.
I would pull up the old carpet And pad first, `tho. It is going to be VERY dirty (dirt and dust will go Everywhere) and could scratch your new walls if it is stiff and/or put down with tacks.
Simply fold the edges of the longest walls to meet in the center and roll towards exit door(don`t carry it any further than you have to, right?) This makes a nice tight compact roll easier to handle and fit through doors/dumpster. Then, if you want to save the floor underneath i.e hardwood, 2mil plastic drop cloth is Very inexpensive as is painter`s tape for the edges and seams. Lots of luck with the nail and tack holes from the carpet installation `tho. These are next to impossible to hide completely.
2. a. Like another`s answer here, I`m not sure what you mean by "scum" but if it`s hard, crusty, and not too thick, light scraping and/or sanding should get it. If it`s oily or sticky i.e glue residue, Goof-Off is a great "getter offer"(:> Keep in mind `tho that ANY liquid you use will soak into the sheetrock unless existing paint is enamel. Here, is where you should get a professional bid. If they are reputable, they will tell you what they think this is and you can go from there.
b. 30+ years ago people had a luxury we don`t have, leaving windows open a little for fresh air etc. So, if the water got in through the open window you have nothing to worry about. Just use Kilz primer as has been suggested. UNLESS...sorry, if it smells of mildew the sheetrock under the window is ruined. That smell Never goes away. If you have the time, once you remove the carpet and pad, leave the room closed up for a few days and come back in from the fresh air. If it`s there, you`ll smell it.
To check to see if the window is leaking somewhere, close the window good and from outside take a water hose and run water ALL over for a good while varying the intensity. Good to have a helper inside at this point to spot any water for you.
If it`s leaking re-caulking is in order. DON`T get in a hurry and make the mistake of caulking Over the existing bad caulk. For a Proper job the old caulk needs to be dug out first. This is Not as hard as it sounds. Most caulk on these older houses are Really dry, has lost it`s "adhesiveness", and easy to pick out with an icepick or similar. Just be careful around the glass and pick away from it (towards yourself).
3. Bunches. Do It Yourself. But DO get the bid. see 2a.
4. I`m a woodgrain person and won`t paint "Real" wood paneling so, if you like the grain just not the color, take the Same paint you do the other walls with and thin it with what ever thinner the paint calls for and "tint" the wood paneling. You`ll still have the wood grain and it`ll be the same color all around. Makes a Very striking accent wall. Thin a Small cupful VERY thin and try spots on the wood, adding more paint each time `til you get the tint you like. You can Always add more paint to your tint mix but you can`t thin it once it`s on the wood (:> Lightly sand paneling `til dull and tint away. Let the First coat dry completely and you won`t need a primer.
If you simply want the natural wood Gone, then sand `till dull paying particular attention to the grooves. A "case" knife handle with sandpaper wrapped around works well. (Don`t use your grandma`s Silver(:> If you know any bricklayers, ask to borrow/buy their "Joint Raker" tool (some call them "strikers") these are perfect for sanding grooves. Then, if you`re Sure the grooves are sanded good, fill them with wallboard compound With Latex! Regular wallboard compound will crack with Any movement of the house/paneling (old houses DO move That`s what all the creaking and groaning noise is). I think it`s easier to use a caulking gun (you might have had to use one for the windows Anyway, right?) with painter`s caulk. Either way, Spread evenly up and down at Least the same width as your putty knife, or wider, sand `til level with your paneling and paint using a primer or more than one coat as above.
Well, guess that`s it. If you`d like to lay your own carpet and pad, email me or direct a question here and I`ll give you step-by-step tips. I can send pics and diagrams etc via email. Don`t know if I can post same here or not. Anybody?
Good Luck! RT
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